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USSoilMap

Soil Water Holding Capacity Calculator

See how much plant-available water your root zone can hold, in inches and in gallons, from USDA's layer-by-layer data for your address or from your soil texture.

Plant-available water = available water capacity × depth, added up layer by layer[1], the water held between field capacity and the wilting point that roots can take up. In the worked example, the top 12 inches of loam hold about 1.92 inches of water, about 1,197 gallons per 1,000 sq ft.

What available water capacity means

Available water capacity is the water held between field capacity and the wilting point that plants can actually take up, given per inch of soil. Add it up over the root zone for the total a plant can draw on[1]. For how we read USDA’s values, see our methodology.

Field capacity is the water a soil still holds once the excess has drained away, which USDA records as the water content at one-third bar. The wilting point is the water held at 15 bar, too tightly for roots to pull out[1][2]. To see where a sample you dug today sits between the two, use the soil moisture content calculator.

Plant-available water is what the root zone holds for plants to use.

Water held per foot by texture

Here is the median plant-available water USDA records for each texture class, as inches of water per foot of soil[2]. Coarse soils hold the least; medium and silty soils hold the most. If you don’t know your texture, the soil texture triangle finds it from sand, silt and clay percentages.

Texture classAvailable water (in/ft)
sand0.84
loamy sand1.1
sandy loam1.6
loam1.9
silt loam2.4
silt2.4
sandy clay loam1.7
clay loam2.0
silty clay loam2.4
sandy clay1.7
silty clay1.8
clay1.7
Sand holds little water per foot; silt loam, silt and silty clay loam tie for the most.

When to water

The total is a reserve that plants draw down between rain or watering. USDA’s irrigation handbook says most crops should be irrigated before more than about half of the available moisture in the root zone has been used, and that each irrigation should apply enough to bring the root zone back to field capacity[3]. For the top foot of loam, which holds about 1.92 inches[2], that means watering by the time about 0.96 inches is gone (calculated).

Measure it at home: the cup test

Kansas State University’s soils lab manual measures water holding with plastic cups[4]. A home version:

  1. Punch small holes in the bottom of a cup and line it with a piece of paper towel so soil can’t fall through.
  2. Add a weighed amount of dry soil.
  3. Stand the cup in a pan of water so the soil wets from the bottom up until it’s saturated.
  4. Lift it out, let it drain for a day, and weigh it: the soil is now near field capacity.
  5. Dry the soil and weigh it again. The weight it lost is the water it held[4].

Divide the water by the dry soil’s weight for a percentage. The soil moisture content calculator does that math and shows how to dry a sample in a microwave.

Peat, vermiculite and perlite

In potting mixes, vermiculite holds large amounts of water and nutrients, perlite doesn’t absorb water and is added for drainage, and peat is added to raise the mix’s water-holding capacity or lower its weight[5]. That advice is for container mixes.

In the ground, adding organic matter raises how much water soil holds, most of all in sandy or coarse soil[6]. Our guides to improving garden soil and improving sandy soil cover how much to add.

How this calculator works

Available water is the available water capacity times the depth, summed by layer[1]. The same arithmetic turns any water content into a depth of water: Kansas State’s example is a 25 cm layer at 20% water by volume, which holds 5 cm of water[4]. The median available water capacity for each texture class comes from USDA’s texture dataset[2]. With “Use my soil”, the sum runs layer by layer over the depth you set, and the whole profile’s water-storage class is USDA’s own rating[1].

Gallons use 623.4 US gallons per inch of water over 1,000 sq ft, calculated from NIST’s conversion factors for cubic inches and gallons[7].

Limits: a texture median describes the class across the country, not your garden. “Use my soil” reads the layers USDA recorded for the main soil mapped at your point, and USDA maps soils at scales from 1:12,000 to 1:63,360, so the result describes the mapped soil rather than a test of your yard[2]. Set the depth to how deep your plants’ roots reach.

Frequently asked questions

How much water does soil hold?

It depends on texture. A loam holds about 1.9 inches of plant-available water per foot, sand under 1 inch, and silt loam about 2.4 inches; multiply by the root-zone depth for the total[2].

Which soil holds the most water?

silt loam, silt and silty clay loam hold the most, about 2.4 inches of plant-available water per foot[2].

How do I calculate available water capacity?

Multiply the available water capacity (inches of water per inch of soil) by each layer’s thickness, then add the layers up. USDA publishes an available water capacity for every mapped layer[1].

When should I water?

USDA’s irrigation handbook says most crops should be watered before more than about half of the available water in the root zone is used, and that a watering should bring the root zone back to field capacity[3]. Half of the calculator’s result is roughly how much your plants can use between waterings.

How can I test my soil's water holding capacity at home?

Soak a cup of soil from below until it’s saturated, let it drain for a day, weigh it, then dry it and weigh it again: the water it lost is about what it holds at field capacity. Kansas State University’s soils lab manual uses this cup method[4].

Marko Visic · MPharm, BSc Physics · Last reviewed November 13, 2026

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