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USSoilMap

Improve Your Soil

Most garden problems start below ground: University of Kentucky specialists trace 80 to 90% of landscape plants’ disease and insect problems to poorly drained soil[1]. These guides fix soil in order, drainage first and then organic matter, each built on extension guidance and checked against USDA’s soil maps.

What does your soil need?

Plot a US address to read the soil USDA mapped there, and get the guidance that fits its texture, pH and drainage.

US addresses only: street address, city and state, or ZIP.

To improve your soil, work in order: test it, fix drainage first, then build organic matter with compost. Organic matter helps sandy soil hold water and nutrients and binds clay into larger crumbs[2]; the guides below cover garden soil, drainage, compaction, sand, clay, pH and the amendments that work.

Work in order: five steps

The plan, from extension guidance[3][1][2]:

  1. Test the soil. A soil test decides whether pH needs adjusting[3], and an annual test is Colorado State’s best measure of whether you need compost[2].
  2. Fix drainage first. A perk test of about 2 inches an hour is good, 1 to 3 is acceptable and under 1 is poor; redirect water from uphill and from downspouts, or build raised beds or berms on wet sites[1].
  3. Add organic matter, mixed thoroughly into new beds[4]: 3 to 4 inches of compost worked into the top 8 to 12 inches of a new garden[2].
  4. Protect it. Mulch the surface and keep traffic off the beds so the soil doesn’t compact[2].
  5. Top it up: about a quarter inch of compost a year in beds you dig[2], or up to an inch a year left on top of beds you don’t dig and lawns[5][6].

Guides

Sand and clay need different fixes

In clay, don’t add sand to poorly drained ground[1], and skip gravel, which makes drainage worse[4]; fibrous compost such as composted wood chips or straw opens clay up. Sandy soil does better with well-decomposed material, finished compost or aged manure, to hold water and nutrients[2]. The clay guide and the sandy soil guide go through both in detail.

If drainage can’t be fixed

Some sites stay wet whatever you do. University of Kentucky specialists suggest raised beds or berms there, and warn against piling large amounts of organic matter onto poorly drained soil. They also list trees and shrubs that tolerate wet ground: red maple, swamp white oak, blackgum, bald cypress, buttonbush, summersweet and winterberry holly[1]. The drainage guide covers the perk test and the fixes in detail.

Amendments to skip

Some fixes make things worse. Colorado State lists gravel, which makes drainage worse; raw wood, which ties up nitrogen until it is composted; fresh manure, which should never go on as an amendment or mulch because of E. coli; and manure composts, which are often salty[4]. The amendments guide goes through what each one does.

When the problem is compaction

Compacted soil is too dense for roots. NRCS gives a bulk density at which roots are restricted for each texture, from 1.47 g/cm³ in clay to 1.8 g/cm³ in sand and loam[7]. Measure yours with the bulk density calculator, and see the compaction guide for how to loosen it.

Getting the pH right

Most vegetables do best between pH 6 and 7, blueberries, azaleas and rhododendrons between 4.5 and 5.5, and lawns between 5.5 and 6[3]. Lime raises pH and sulfur lowers it; sulfur reacts slowly, so work it into the soil[8]. The pH guide has rates by texture and a calculator for your area.

Plants for your soil

Rather than change the soil, pick plants that already tolerate it.

Dense clay: plants that spread their roots wide and shallow.
Loose sand: plants that send roots deep to find water.

Frequently asked questions

What should I do first to improve my soil?
Test it. The test decides whether pH needs adjusting[3] and whether you need compost[2].
Should I add sand to clay soil?
No, not to poorly drained clay[1]. Work in compost instead, and see the clay guide.
How much compost should I add?
For a new garden, 3 to 4 inches worked into the top 8 to 12 inches; for a new lawn, 1 to 2 inches worked into the top 6[2]. The compost calculator turns that into cubic yards.
How do I know if my soil drains poorly?
Moss, standing water, a sour smell and blue-gray or white soil are signs; a perk test under 1 inch an hour confirms it[1].
Should I till compost into my soil?
In a new bed, yes: an amendment has to be mixed in thoroughly to work[4]. In an established bed or a lawn, top-dress instead and let the compost work in[5][6].
Does gravel improve drainage?
No. Colorado State lists gravel as an amendment that makes drainage worse[4].
Can I improve soil without digging?
Yes, on established beds and lawns: top-dress up to an inch of compost a year and let it work in[5][6].

Want the background first? See learn about soil.

Sources

  1. University of Kentucky Extension, ID-237 Soil Percolation: A Key to Survival of Landscape Plants (2016)
  2. Colorado State University Extension, Soil Amendments (GardenNotes #241; reviewed Sept 2024)
  3. Oregon State University Extension, Why soil pH matters, and how to manage it in your garden
  4. Colorado State University Extension, Choosing a Soil Amendment (fact sheet 7.235; reviewed May 2024)
  5. Ask Extension, Should I top dress with compost or a combo of compost & soil? (2024)
  6. UC Master Gardeners (Tulare/Kings), Lasagna Gardening aka No-till Gardening (K. Dressel; 2025)
  7. USDA NRCS Soil Health Guide, Bulk Density
  8. Ohio State University Extension, Soil Acidification: How to Lower Soil pH (AGF-507)

Marko Visic · MPharm, BSc Physics · Last reviewed November 13, 2026